Golden-Gai – Golden Town – is a small quarter of some 6 narrow little streets in Shinjuku, comprising two floor houses clustered together, however very tiny and now they house some 200-300 tiny miniature restaurants and bars – and this all is on the territory of some 30,000 square meters. The history of this entertainment little district dates back to the post World War II period. This period that followed the war was chaotic. Golden Gai began as black market and then it turned into pleasure quarters. In 1958 the Anti-Prostitution Law came into force in Japan and subsequently it became a quarter of restaurants and bars. I cannot believe what I see. 🙂 Maybe just as few as 4 people fit into many of the bars.
Walking during the day is interesting, but it is dead. The doors are closed… From time to time some curious tourist poking around… Including me… I decide to return in the evening. In the evening it is quite a different story. The little streets are bustling with life. Some bars do not admit guests from the street at all, as they are for members only. Some bars have cover charge – 800-1,000 ¥ – this is what I saw and I do not say that some cannot have it higher or lower. But bars not charging a cover charge can be found, too. The cheapest drink is beer, it costs 700 ¥. Sake is 700, followed by other drinks which are more expensive.
There are many bar keepers in the doors of their bars to attract customers. I wanted to have a drink to make my evening visit really authentic and I entered a bar ordering a drink. Hovewer, I should have avoided this “enjoying a drink inside”. When a couple entered shortly after me, the bar keeper told me to move from my seat to another seat and this couple was seated. We started having a conversation with this couple, they were from the U.S.A. The bar keeper was in the door, to lure some more customers into his bar and then we were made to move again, so that the newcomers could be seated and the bar keeper somehow tried to instigate a conversation among us. It felt a bit awkward, but the space was really small. However, a short while later, we were asked if we wanted to order another drink. If not, we should finish our drinks and leave as he has a reservation and he needs the bar. So much about “enjoying a drink inside”. Less than 20 minutes gone and I was out again.
After this disappointing experience I just strolled a bit more in this area to soak in the outside atmosphere, I found it cute anyway.
