TSURUGAOKA HACHIMANGU SHRINE

Minamoto no Yorioshi (988-1075) established a small shrine for the Hachiman kami =  Shinto God of war  and archery – god of warriors, on Zaimokuza beach in Kamakura in 1063. This was his way of thanking Hachiman for helping him to win the decisive battle of his campaign from 1051 until 1062 against an uprising in the North-East of  Japan. He had prayed for victory at Iwashimizu Hachimangu Shrine in Kyoto before sending his troops into the  battle and received divine arrows from the shrine. He dedicated the divine arrows to the kami when the above mentioned original small shrine in Kamakura was built, which is now called Yuiwakamiya – Moto Hachiman Shrine. It is not on a beach any more, as the city mushroomed around it and the sea retreated.

Replicas were made of these arrows in 11th and 12th centuries and nowadays thirty  of them are exhibited in the Shrine Museum in Hongú – Main Shrine area of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu. Unfortunately, photography is not allowed there. They are black lacquered,  among them “kaburaya” – whistling arrows and “togariya” – sharp pointed arrows. They are highly decorative.  During New Year celebrations “Hamaya” – an arrow to ward off evil, is an important amulet.  Hachiman kami became the guardian kami of the Minamoto clan – this was publicly announced by  samurai Minamoto no Yorinobu (968-1048). His eldest son was Minatomo no Yorioshi, whose eldest  son was Minatomo no Yoshiiye (1039-1106) –  Minamoto no Yoritomo´s ancestors. All of them were samurai warlords as they belonged to one of two military families in Japan in those times. No wonder then that they were all devoted to Hachiman and made him the tutelary deity of their family. Hachiman became worshipped to such extent that this god became the Mars of Japan.

Minamoto no Yoritomo (1147-1199) – the first Shogun of Kamakura shogunate,  moved the shrine to the present site on a hill in 1180. Kamakura became the capital of Japan, Hachimangu temple was in the centre of the city and played an important role as a religious authority as many majestic rituals were held here by the shogunate.  It also served as the political centre of the shogunate. Because it was dedicated to the god of war,  it was visited by the samurai before their departure to the front lines to pray for victory.  Many other shrines were added on the temple grounds and they also had to be  rebuilt as time went by. It was designated as a nationally important cultural property in 1996.

There are about 80,000 Shinto shrines in Japan – and appr. 20,000 of them are dedicated to Hachiman kami.   In as many as 40,000 shinto holy places Hachiman is enshrined. This kami also has a Buddhist title  “Hachiman Dai Bosatsu”. Interestingly, when Buddhism arrived in Japan in the 6th century, Buddha was recognized as kami from across the seas. From the 7th century temples and shrines were built enshrining both Japanese Shinto kami and Buddhist deities.

Hachiman kami had appeared in Kyushu in the middle of the 6th century and was revered by the local clan as their tutelary kami. It started to be worshipped by the Yamato Imperial Court, too. The first Hachiman shrine, Usa Jingú or Usa Hachimangú,  was founded probably in 725 and is mentioned for the first time in 737 in Usa, Oita Prefecture in Kyushu. It is the most prestigious Hachiman shrine.

Hongu – Main shrine –  of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu shrine in Kamakura  is situated on a prominent place on a hill. The present building was built by Tokugawa Ienari, the 11th Tokugawa shogun in 1828. It is a typical example of Edo shrine architecture. In the Edo period, ordinary people also started to worship at Tsurugaoka Hachimangu and this continues until today. It is the biggest shrine in Kamakura. This shrine is one of the most popular shrines in Japan with more than 18 million visitors a year. This is definitely one of historic sites that represents Kamakura and it ranks among the most famous Hachiman shrines.

San no tóorii =  The Third Gate marks the entrance to the Tsurugaoka Hachiman gú Shrine at the end of Wakamiya Óji avenue
These lovely Japanese girls wearing traditonal kimonos add color to otherwise gray rainy day

On the temple grounds on the way towards Maiden – Lower Worship Hall – seen straight ahead on the ground level, and Hongú – Main Shrine – seen at the top
Chouzuya or temizuya – is a place for ritual cleansing of hands and mouth with water when visiting shrines  – Shinto water ablution pavillion. Ablution before visiting the shrine is imperative and water basin is besieged in rain, too
Love blossoms everywhere, even under an umbrella in pouring rain in front of the wall of sake casks on the temle grounds
Merry students from Tokyo, on a school trip, asked me to kindly take their picture and then I was allowed to take one of them for me, too. They are posing in front of the Lower worship hall – Maiden. Hachiman – being the god of war, certainly helps all people in their personal “wars”, like exams at school, and I guess that this trip eventually proves to be useful for them and brings them good luck  🙂
These steps lead to hongu – the main shrine
One more look, from the steps, at maiden – the lower worship hall
Rómon – Great Gate of the Hongú = Main Shrine complex – was originally constructed in 1191 and rebuilt in 1930 after the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923.  Caligraphic gold inscription on the large black lacquered plaque  background reads Hachimangu. It was written in 1633 by Prince Ryoujo who was famous for his calligraphy. The first kanji is number eight = hachi  – and he wrote it in the form of two doves – as doves are the messengers of Hachiman kami
The Main Shrine Complex, side view
One more photo of the staircase leading to the main shrine – but the weather is much better  🙂